□ Purple Mountain/Jinling Evening News reporter Wang Feng
When you were young, did you often follow your parents to make clothes and stare at the hand-worn old-fashioned popcorn machine? Nowadays, the passage of time, the bit by bit as a child has become a constant memory. With the improvement of living standards, very few people have been tailoring. Few people have to write pen-shoe repair shoes. It is also difficult to hear the “pop” sound of hand-cranked popcorn... In the era of rapid development of mechanization, Where will the old craft go? Fortunately, we have found some craftsmen who have spent most of their lives in Nanjing City and will take you to experience the new sparks that are still developing in the old craft that is still developing in Nanjing City.
When I was a kid, I used to make clothes, a ruler, a powder cake, and it became a constant memory. The sewing machine was also one of the “three big things” that was necessary for marriage at that time. As time goes by, with the improvement of living standards, few people have gone to tailor. In the era of rapid development of mechanization, old crafts are destined to have a hard time. Fortunately, we found tailors with 38 years of craftsmanship in Nanjing City and will take you to the tailor's time in the alley today.
In the past, the "appetizing" tailoring industry
One is 38 years
The sewing machine buzzed and the silver shiny needles quickly ran forward with the sewing machine. The old tailors pressed the fabrics, no hassle, no relief, and a perfect match with the sewing machine... Yao Jiaxiang Inside, 56-year-old Dai Shiren and his wife are chatting with customers while working. In the shop, the materials and tools required by the tailor are all within easy reach.
The tailoring industry once flourished and mastered tailoring skills, meaning that life and clothing are worry-free. Dai Tai’s family lives in Jiangning. Since the 1980s, tailors are a very “appealing” industry. In 1977, he followed his master’s apprenticeship and, two years later, he started to work for others to do sewing work. In 1981, he went to the Jinling Road in the Confucius Temple to start a tailoring business. “A piece of clothing, a pair of pants, how much cloth to buy, most of them have to ask a tailor. The clothes that were made were mainly concentrated at the end of the century. In the 1980s we did not have a tailor shop. Under the sheds in the Confucius Temple, some of the marketers gathered at the Confucius Temple to choose fabrics and clothes.”
Master Dai’s hands are thick, and the years left a thick mark on the old man in his joints. It’s easy to see that his time has passed between a detailed stitch and a cut of various fabrics. In the 1980s, it was still more "valet tailoring." Because his wife also needs to take care of children, he will also take home the tailored work to his wife. Around 1995, the tailoring industry gradually declined due to the cheaper clothes on the market.
Tailoring time at Confucius Temple
Pass on the craftsmanship of several generations
“When the business was good, it was a year off during the rest of the year.” 80s of the last century, ironing a piece of clothing for 5 cents, doing 10 yuan for a single garment, men's single pants 2.9 yuan, women's single pants 3.1 yuan.
“At that time, the efficiency was also very high. There was a quick and fast service. Generally, it was a tunic and a single dress. The emphasis was on warmth and comfort. There was no requirement on the style. Therefore, the pants could be done in one hour. It takes about two hours to dress," said Master Dai. "In the 80s, many people would come to tailor clothes on the spot, stroll around the bustling Confucius Temple, and pick up the right fabrics to make clothes." Many people yearn for it.” These crafts are inherited by generations and generations of masters. Recalling the scene of tailoring in the Confucius Temple in the 1980s, Master Dai looked relieved. “At the time of the Confucius Temple, 40 to 50 tailors were put together to form a square, and in the middle there were many sewing machines Machines, copy machines, and a lot of tailors hand-knotting." At the time popular saying: "Nanjing City, hard to do, Shanghai master to help."
In 2012, Master Dai moved from the Confucius Temple to Yaojia Lane and rented a small facade. Together with his wife, he continued to work on a small sewing business. A sewing machine was also followed by Dai Tai for more than 30 years.
The tailor's skill in the alley is "no successor"?
In the tailor's tailor shop, there is no need for receipts between the customers. The changed clothes are categorized in a narrow store. Each clothes pocket has a “white bar” on which clothes are modified. Requests and time, waiting for customers to come to pick up. Talking about hard work, he said that because of the cold weather, there will be “cutting and powdering” outside in winter. Now, both the master and his wife have occupational diseases with cervical pain and knee pain.
During the interview, Master Dai lamented that with the development of modern industry, there are fewer and fewer people who understand the “tailor” craftsmanship in the market, and besides the markets that plagued the tailoring industry, there are also problems of “following no one”.
So, where does the "tailor" old industry go? The reporter then also visited the clothing market and learned about the new vitality of the tailoring industry. For the current status of the tailoring industry, private customization has become the new darling.
High-end private customization
Inheriting the old name
When the reporter walked into a private custom shop on Jiqing Road, he happened to meet Mr. Zhang to come and try fitting. For his adjustments on clothes, sewing, sewing, and collars, the old craftsman Zhong was careful to make a record. After making a sample production, he adjusted it according to Mr. Zhang’s request and finally dressed.
“Now, people are beginning to pursue personalized things, hoping that they can show their taste, wear their own style, and the private customized model will meet the needs of consumers in this area. Therefore, the heritage of the old brand is not The immutable, and constantly changing with the times. For example, now popular Japanese and Korean style, then the private custom will be adjusted according to the market format."
From the choice of materials to the size of the needle to sewing a sample, these procedures are very much a test of the craftsman's craft. In terms of taking on Chinese clothing, there is a clear difference between it and youth wear. There are fewer people wearing Chinese tunic, and young people wear more youth wear. Whether it is Zhongshan or youth wear, it is hand-stitched. "From the choice of materials to measuring the body to dressing, and then to repeated changes, it takes one month to customize a piece of clothing, and there is only one week for a single hand-stitched hand-stitching."
Referring to inheritance, the old tailors said that “(in the 1990s) many young people wear Tang suits, but as a traditional handcraft, we still stick to suits made by suits and tunics etc.” One of the inheritors of the craft The master, who began to dress from the age of 17, has had a unique understanding of the word "inheritance" after nearly 40 years of private custom. According to Chung Zhong’s words, the reason why private customization stands out from the ordinary “tailor” industry, and what’s more important is that it has maintained a tradition of hand-sewn for centuries, taking the apprentice’s “taking the needle” and saying “a needle”. Learning is enough to study for two years, but many people cannot do it.
Many young startup groups
Join private custom
After 80 and 90 are the main consumer groups that are growing up. They pursue personality and self-expression. They have high requirements for fabrics, texture, and occasions. Many people no longer pursue the brand blindly, but tend to be practical and cost-effective.
Ms. Wen, who is a private custom clothing business on Zhujiang Road, is also considered to be one of the successful people in transition. Since she did not really like the profession she has learned, she has transformed herself into a private tailoring industry. In her view, with the development of society, more and more people choose private custom clothing, some business people will customize suits, and customization has gradually become the trend of the clothing industry.
“We not only do private customization, but also do group wear for companies. Clothing customization is not only a simple cut, because the version will be upgraded, our custom system has a version database, and according to different body Intelligent matching, so that there will be the data closest to the client's body, the suit will be more fit."
In addition, tailors will keep up with the times and customize some of the stars with the needs of consumers. “Some time ago, there were young people sending plans to request custom-made high-round round coats and Peng Yu’s uniforms. This is constantly testing the skills of tailors!” said Miss Wen with a smile. In the interview, the most talked about by the craftsmen is that garment production upholds the hard work spirit of the craftsmen. This culture should be passed down and should not be forgotten along with the development of modern industry.